Volcan Osorno

Took a trip yesterday around Volcan Osorno to an abandoned Refugio and back. The day started off as every other I've seen in Puerto Varas - dense fog/clouds and threatening to rain. The trails were poorly marked but I managed to stick to the trail which took me up through the clouds. The reward was worthwhile as I escaped to a perfect day up above.
I hiked all the way to the old Refugio at Desolation Pass, but the clouds were even thicker on that side of the mountain and the beautiful views of the lake seemed like
They weren't clearing up any time soon. Back to the side I climbed up since i was able to see the clouds start breaking up as I was leaving them. Great views of the lake
That peak in the back os Volcan Tronador (also seen from Bariloche). And there is another visible off to the left of the picture with a name something like "pointy-guy", which would be an apt description. 3 volcanos visible at the same time. Then I just hiked down to the crystal clear lake and the black sand beach. Also visited the waterfalls of Petrohue, but not much to mention there.
That's more or less the end of Patagonia for me. Taking an overnight bus this evening to Valparaiso for a night and then back over to Santiago for the weekend.

Puerto Montt

Headed down to Puerto Varas after Pucon, but I heard back from Paul a day too late to join them on their hike into the Cochamo Valley - which I still really wanted to start on my own even though I wouldn't have enough time to do the whole hike. It's the valley/mountain pass Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid used while hiding out in South America. And it's also very beautiful - often compared to Yosemite. But I'm running out of days even for that considering the Refugio there just closed for the season today and the buses are in low season. So instead I used this crummy weather day to take a 30 min bus ride to Puerto Montt - the main shipping port of southern Chile. I originally planned to spend more time there but everyone I've met said it's lame ("muerto montt" as the nice chica at my hostel calls it...took me a while to realize what she was saying and even longer to figure out she meant dead as in "boring", not "murderous". Although apparently it is also the most dangerous city in Chile).
Anyway. Hit up the Angelmo artesian fair for the best prices in chile, hit up the fish market where the cocinas cook up meals fresh off the boat. Here is the marisco soup I ordered. Guaranteed the freshest seafood I've ever eaten and I was also convinced the most likely to make me sick:
But it was actually pretty good and I'm still feeling chipper hours later. Still have no idea what all I was even eating. With all my work there done I left soon thereafter. The rest of the city is a dump and gives off an uneasy feeling. The food picture is the prettiest I could frame from my time there.

With still lots of time to kill I took the advice of the hostel excursion adviser (whom was initially convinced I was Argentinian this morning - score! Until his first complete sentence when I didn't understand a word he said. But at least I can mimic pleasantries with the best of them) and I went to Frutillar which is a small German influenced city just past Puerto Varas. Honestly not much to see there although the weather was bad. Otherwise seeing the volcano from the black sand beach could be nice.

Tomorrow I'm getting up early to day hike the first leg of the volcano Osorno.

Volcan Villarica

Alright folks - volcano summit (check)
The hike was really simple and easier than imagined, but also more fun than I thought it would be and there were other reasons I was happy to have had a guide.
Woke up early and our guide was eager to make us the first group to the chairlift. He delivered on his promise and we cheated and took the lift up, but it was necessary or else we would be the last group waiting for everyone else. From there its just a short hike to the snowpack where we put on our crampons. Soon after we hit a ridgeline and the wind was howling, soon some of the group was slowing down so we split up into groups. A group of 5 guys pushed ahead and were the first tour group to peak. The last leg was pretty heavy with volcanic gas and we had to stop occasionally - stinging the eyes and choking the lungs...poison has a taste for sure. Once we summited we walked around the crater on the inside to avoid the gases. We sat up there for 15-30 minutes to take lunch an about the time the second group came up we left. Here is a pic from the Villarica (from Ruca Pillan which means "the house of spirits") summit:

The way down was faster, but far more interesting than the way up. No crampons necessary. First you down climb the rock crater. The loose volcano rock sometimes slips and careens down on the groups still climbing up. We were trying to be careful, but when we were 15 minutes down a guy just summiting kicked a rock the size of a huge watermelon loose and it was heading straight for a group in the same chute at breakneck speed. Right before it got to them it his a larger rock and multi-balled into 3 pieces, spraying in different directions and just missed a few of them.
The second leg starts when you hit the snow. You don't walk down- you "bum-slide". I was climbing with the rich and famous of London, don't ask. But really there are grooves in the snow and you slide down the volcano using your ice axe to dump speed if necessary. It was pretty fun to do and even more fun to watch other people fail at. A lot if the other guide companies seemed to prepare their employees poorly and at the bottom they would just take people out.
Ok so the whole thing was awesome and I didnt even have to worry about the joint pain. Then we get back to the hostel and the company provides celebratory beverages and we unpack. Then I think I already mentioned my friend in Ann Arbor has a friend living in Pucon...we went to his place and had a the second bacon cheeseburger I've seen on a menu in 7 weeks (delicious) from the porch with this view:
Then I got a chopp para llevar in my nalgene and joined some hostel friends at the natural hot springs Los Pozones. I was tired from lack of sleep but I was a great end to a great day. And then I had the greatest sleep of this trip.

Today I wanted to go to a national park, but ended up going to a closer beach to hike around. Not the level of hiking I was looking for, but very relaxing and worth the $1.50 bus transfer. Gonna meet up in a bit and then off tomorrow for Puerto Varas.

On to Pucon

I escaped the authorities once again and I'm now back in Chile, Pucon to be exact. After Eric left I realized that this is more or less the first solo traveling I've done in my life if you don't count work and single travel days. I stayed in Bariloche an extra day to try and figure out my next move. This guy from North Carolina wanted to rent a car and drive the 7 lakes - I agreed to join on the condition that he also wanted to hike the volcano. We didn't have immediate luck in funding other passengers to defray costs, but when I sent a facebook feeler to our Chalten hiking buddy he already had a car rented for the next day with two open spots. Count it.
This started the most culturally exhausting two days of my trip. We made friends and cooked dinner with another American, an Aussie and Kiwi. Then I had to meet up with the car group - my German friend living in Spain and two Spaniards (only one joining the car ride) whose English was worse than my Spanish. So i had my first night out speaking almost entirely Spanish. The next day we drove up the 7 lakes trail, but it was cloudy and I didn't take many pictures - pretty, but similar to northern MN with mountains instead of rocky cliffs. We found a cool youth hostel and our Spaniard ran into a Catalonian doing a round-the-world she had met in Ushuaia. Devon and myself booked out bus to Pucon and then we had another night out of dinner and Spanish. Exhausted we went to sleep and got up for our 6am bus across the border. Beautiful sunrise views of Volcano Lanin, although it clouded up by the time the bus stopped for customs and immigration. We got our hostel and booked our guide for the Villarica volcano hike tomorrow - then check my mail to find a friend knows people here. So I'm waiting to hear back from them, but I'll probably go check out the guy's pub tonight an maybe get enough insider info to stick around here a little longer.
If the weather is nice I'll make sure to post tomorrow about the volcano hike. If the weather is looking bad we postpone...

Not a Fisherman

You know the saying - Teach a man to fish and take the fool's money. Or something like that. Joking, although I did look like a fool:
Hey who knew it was going to be 35 degrees at 9am and misty enough on the river to block the sun. But eventually the sun broke through and we had our 65 an sunny day we had planed for. Manny did the best he could with the talent he was given, but Eric and I just couldn't put it all together in time - Eric had on big one on his line for 10 seconds before it got away. I had a couple nibbles which also could easily have been rocks. But regardless the Limay River (which means "clear" in Mapuche) was beautiful. We learned to fly fish - wet and dry flies, wading and floating, in a picturesque Patagonian setting. As it turns out we were fishing during the season where there aren't many fish in thr water, but the Brown Trout that are present are lunkers. So maybe we aren't as bad as we appear. If it weren't so expensive I wouldn't have any reservations about the experience.

Still in Bariloche - Eric punked out to Burnos Aires today on his way to Peru. I checked the weather forecasts and hostel prices in Arg and Chile an made the informed decision to stay here for a couple more days. Tomorrow I'm trying to wrangle up a group to rent a car and see the 7lakes route. Then it's on to Chile for real to climb the pansiest of the three volcanoes I've found unless I can find some more adventurous hiking buddies now that Eric is gone.

More Photos

One of the high points if the Torres. We were barely able to see it's immensity through the clouds from the top of the John Gardner Pass, but we got to hike next to it for hours the next day with perfect weather and were able to walk almost right next to it.


One of the more interesting sections of the Torres. Vertical ladders sections tied together with thin lengths if wire, precariously tied to poorly rooted shrubs on the side if the cliff which "get blown out occasionally by flash floods" according to the guidebook, "use your wits".


Step 1 of hiking the Dientes circuit takes you straight up to the top of Cerro Bandera (the Beagle Channel in the background named after the ship Darwin first sailed through with it's Captain Fitz Roy). Awesome views with Ushuaia visible on the western shoreline, not pictured.


View from the top of Paso de los Dientes, on my day 2 day hike from camp, giving first views of the spongy lowlands of Isla Navarino with foggy views if Cape Horn in the background. Cape Horn is the literal end of the Americas beyond which lies only Antarctica and the roughest seas in the world.

Perito Moreno Glacier

I already wrote a bit about the hike on the glacier. This goes along with the backlog pics, but Internet is starting to get boggy so I didn't want to try to post too much at one time. Here is a view of the group heading out to the glacier:

And of course no glacier hike would be complete without complementary scotch on the thousand-year-old rocks (they fished icebergs over the deck of the boat to chip off and use as ice):